Crossing the Nullarbor (Norseman to Ceduna- 1200km) – (2 nights)

After heading north of Esperance by 200km you reach Norseman, if you then head east this is considered the start of the infamous Nullarbor (we named it ‘The Nothing’ – because at times that is all you saw out the window).  Nullarbor is Latin for ‘no trees’, There are actually some trees on the plains but not many until you reach the eastern end and approach Ceduna.  There are a series of plains and very long straight sections of road.  One straight is 146km, the longest straight length of road in Australia.  Under the plain are limestone systems with caves galore, Andrew and Karen and girls (the Bunge Bungle family) are cavers so were off to explore some caves, hopefully we will see them again and hear all about it.  

Nullarbor plains in the background

  At one stage I said to John “Imagine cycling this road!” and then up head we came across five mature males on road bikes in matching tops, it had just changed to a head wind for them!.  Anyway at Ecula while visiting the telegraph station ruins we met the support crew for this group, identifiable as they were wearing the same tops.  They told us these guys were riding from Perth to the east coast over 30 days (about 3000km) to raise money for an autism support organisation – what legends!  There were also two other cycle tourists on the road carrying their gear in panniers, I think I prefer the idea of a support crew.  Another sight on the side of the road was a family of emus, the babies are so cute!!!!

cyclists on Nullarbor encounter a headwind and stop for a rest!!

Emu family

Telegraph station ruins at Ecula

At about 720km we crossed the Western Australia – South Australia border, the clocks went forward 1.5 hours and you can’t take fruit and vege across the border (although they do the eastbound check at Ceduna later on). 

We stayed in 24 hour rest areas on the side of the road both nights, they generally have toilets and you can light fires.  We meet Jim and Jenny from Tasmania at the first stop and ended in the same spot the second night so shared a fire and yarns with them.  Their best yarn was the one about being in Berln when the wall came down and seeing an east-west romantic reunion on a train.  They are both teachers so very patient with the kids and their random yarns.

The highlight of the Nullabor is a visit to the Head of the Southern Bight where there is a couple of boardwalks and lookouts for whale watching between May and October.  The Southern Bight cliffs are dramatic and stunning and scary all at once! We were very lucky to see at least 10 southern right whales and their calves resting in the bay.  Binoculars were a must, you could see them so clearly.  Photographing them was a struggle but I managed to capture a calve doing a backflip!  The kids seem to be more impressed with the painted dragons and bobtails they spotted on the paths!

Southern Bight cliffs

Southern right whale calf doing a backflip!

Painted dragon